Understanding Denim – A Lecture by Mohsin Sajid

Date/Time: Friday 18 January, 2019 - 2:00pm

Date/Time End: Friday 18 January, 2019 - 4:30pm

Venue: Eldon Building

The School of Art Design and Performance welcomes Mohsin Sajid, graduate of Westminster University (2002) for a lecture at the Faculty of Creative and Cultural Industries at the University of Portsmouth.

Mohsin is a highly accomplished denim specialist, acclaimed pattern cutter and ergonomic tailor.  He has worked for some of the best denim and apparel fashion companies in the global industry for the last 16 years.  Starting his career at Oki-ni, he designed for Levi’s Japan, Levi’s Europe, Evisu, and Aquascutum. He then consulted for several prestigious brands from: Edwin Europe, Pringle of Scotland, John Richmond, Puma AG, Ducati, DKNY JEANS, Timberland, Abercrombie & Fitch, Vivienne Westwood and Jil Sander. Mohsin has a passion for building local industry, helping establish Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in London in 2015, and running his own Denim Masterclasses there.

Mohsin has a keen interest in raising the next generation of denim designers reflecting in his role as MA denim lecturer at The Royal College of Art, and BA denim lecturer at Westminster, Ravensboune and London College of Fashion – Mohsin is also lead denim lecturer at “The Denim School of Milan”.

Mohsin is also a vintage denim machine specialist and vintage denim collector amassing an archive of around 1000 vintage garments.

Since 2012 Mohsin established his own ENDRIME Denim workshop, and consultancy based in West Sussex, UK. He is currently writing his 1st book on denim manufacturing processes; a comprehensive textbook from 1870 to modern ergonomic denim of today, which he hopes to complete in 2019.


The lecture will cover: Denim History, Key Historical brands and their input in denim/workwear today. New Denim Renaissance, cotton, yarn & denim manufacturing processes (including many videos of the cotton process – from harvest to yarn), Natural indigo vs Synthetic indigo, Denim terminologies, strengths of using original shuttle looms, different weaves, different thicknesses and their strengths RHT, LHT etc. Selvedge denims vs non Selvedge and different types of washing treatments/finishes. Anatomy of a 5 pocket Jeans. Thread sizes and colours, metal sundries colours – in relating to denim shade.

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The lecture is open to students and staff across the University and members of the public.

Throughout the lecture, there will be many examples of vintage pre 1920 pieces and a selection of 40 other denim samples from Mohsins ENDRIME archive to talk through the construction methods and special details in each jean – Plus various videos of denim manufacture from denim factories in the USA, Turkey, China and Japan.

This lecture will also give participants the opportunity to understand this complex product type and ask questions after every section.

The final section of the lecture will cover key details that make a jean, different finishes that are applied to the denim and at different levels of the market. Reference will be made to the impact on cost, quantities, garment manufacturing and lead times when selecting fibres and fabrics.

New textile developments will also be highlighted throughout the session;

Cotton fibres: types, properties and production
Common yarns used for denim: preparation, production, yarn types and counts
Yarns: suitability to end use, in relation to design and price
Woven constructions: preparation, methods, variations, weights
Different dyeing techniques to achieve different results
Common coatings prior to garment washing
Common pre-treatments: chemical and mechanical
Common washes: chemicals, stone and stone equivalents
Common manufacturing issues: faults and problems


This is a theory class – just a note pad is needed.

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